Thursday, July 23, 2020

Conjuring the Muse of Hogwarts by Connie Berry



If Harry Potter was born (as J. K. Rowling revealed recently on Twitter) in a tiny flat above a sporting goods store in south London, the bespectacled orphan-wizard gained his powers in the back room of The Elephant House, a charming red-painted tea and coffee house just off Cowgate in Edinburgh's Old Town. There, at a seat by the window, Ms. Rowling famously wrote much of her first two novels. With massive Edinburgh Castle looming above and historic Holyrood Palace a short stroll away, I can't imagine a more inspiring place to court the Muse.


In theory.


Fame, as Ms. Rowling has no doubt learned, comes with a price. The last time I was in Edinburgh, the queue at The Elephant snaked out the door and halfway down George IV Bridge Street. There wasn't a seat available, for setting up a laptop or sipping coffee or anything else. Ian Rankin and Alexander McCall Smith are said to frequent The Elephant. Maybe on a cold day in January.


So popular with Rowling's fans is The Elephant House that the proprietors have given up removing graffiti from the loos. The walls are now so plastered with messages that determined Potterheads have taken to writing on the windows, the ceiling, the door frames, the paper towel holder, and even the soap dispenser. The messages run the gamut from touching and profound to downright cheeky. One reads: "You taught me how to read, love and believe, thank you JK always." Another says: "I'd get sleazy for Ron Weasley." If customers complain about the mess, said House manager, Roxy Hessami, "We have to tell them we can't control it....It's not like we give them pens."


The owners used to repaint the toilets every year but have now given it up as a lost cause. "After it was painted once," Hessami said, "a note about who was in Dumbledore's Army had three tallies next to it. By the end of the day, it was at 83." One time someone wrote, "The service is so slow in here anyone could write a book." 

They did paint over that one.


I can't claim a writing space as quaint or historic as The Elephant House, but my favorite place to write is at my desk overlooking the lake and woods in northern Wisconsin. There's something about nature that fuels my imagination. Maybe it's the peace and quiet. I can't imagine battling Voldemort—or even Draco Malfoy—with noisy coffee-drinkers jostling at my elbow.


More power to J. K. Rowling. I wonder where she writes now?

Authors, do you have a favorite place to write?

Will you tell us about it?


6 comments:

  1. I hope all those queued are buying coffee and tea - and maybe a scone or two. What a quaint little shop. Easy to see how JK drew her inspiration while keeping her heating bill down.

    We have just returned to our Maine home and I'm in the process of setting up my office again. No lake view, but two ponds and a lovely woods outside. Just the place to find my muse.

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  2. Welcome home, Kait! Look forward to reading about your adventures on the road.

    Connie, what a charming spot!

    I write at the kitchen table, the dogs at my side.

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  3. For now, I write in a bedroom no longer needed as such since my daughters are adults. It has a nice view of the woods and, in front, a garden where I watch the deer eat my daylily buds and hostas, since I have given up on trying to save them. It's also the "junk room," where I have lots of things I can't quite bear to discard (yet) like the stuffed horse we made years ago for a Cabbage Patch doll and the extra suitcases from before they came with wheels (suppose we need them some day?)

    We will be moving soon to an apartment in a retirement community, so I will have to re-evaluate things. And I hope to eliminate the idea of a "junk room." Just get rid of the stuff. Maybe.

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  4. Interesting view into where JK Rowling wrote. I couldn't imagine being able to write with so much going on around me. When I'm actually writing and not checking email, etc., I like to sit on our screened porch, which is a bit like a treehouse surrounded by tall trees. The only noise I have to contend with comes from crickets, birds, squirrels, and the occasional clank of the air conditioner turning on.

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  5. I imagine when Rowling was writing there it wasn’t as popular. What an interesting place to visit if you have time to stand in line.

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  6. Susan, you're right. It wasn't popular until Rowling made it popular--and pretty well ruined it for anything but a tourist magnet. You can get coffee, tea, treats, etc.--but unless you're in Edinburgh way off tourist season, the experience isn't pleasant. Just interesting.

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