Spoleto Festival 2016

by Paula Gail Benson

Rainbow Row

Memorial Day weekend signals the start of the Spoleto Festival in Charleston, SC, a two-week celebration of all things musical, theatrical, and artistic. The Festival began as the idea of opera composer Gian Carlo Menotti, who had initiated an arts extravaganza in his native Italy and was looking to establish a similar event in an American “sister city.”

Charleston’s Mayor Joe Riley, who became nationally prominent for helping his city rebuild after Hurricane Hugo and recently retired after ten terms of service, took up Menotti’s challenge, realizing that such a festival would bring new hotels and dining establishments to the Holy City, as well as bolstering a thriving tourist economy for existing businesses. He was definitely right. Just so you can appreciate the mayor’s vision, here are some samples of the Southern hospitality and cuisine I enjoyed while attending Spoleto this year.

Eli's Table Restaurant

At Eli’s Table, I had a Caesar salad alongside fried oysters over black-eyed peas with sweet potato straws and a butter barbecue sauce. In addition to a delectable mojito, my server brought me a complimentary glass of champagne and an apricot-colored rose.

Then, a block up the street, at Toast, I stopped for a lovely dessert of red velvet cupcake with a crème brulee latte. Truly, a magnificent feast, and so necessary for maintaining energy to enjoy the productions! 

Toast Restaurant

I began attending Spoleto to see the performances of the Irish Gate Theatre Company at the Dock Street Theatre. This year’s The Importance of Being Earnest featured a polished acting ensemble and innovative staging. It was a joy from start to finish.

The major event of the festival was the return of Porgy and Bess to the city that inspired it. Presented in the newly renovated Galliard Auditorium, the opera, based on the novel by DuBose Heyward and with lyrics and music by Ira and George Gershwin, is set in an area of Charleston known as Cabbage Row, but renamed Catfish Row in the fictional account.

Porgy, a disabled street vendor who navigates the city in his goat cart, falls in love with the beautiful, abused Bess while her violent ex-lover Crown and “happy dust” provider Sportin’ Life seek to tear the couple apart.

The passion of the story and beauty of the music were captivating and visually enhanced by the vividly colorful designs of artist Jonathan Green. To experience Porgy and Bess in its birthplace, and in a venue directly across the street from the Mother Emanuel AME Church, only deepened the opera’s message that when facing the most insurmountable odds, there is still hope for the future. I felt very fortunate to attend the last matinee performance. At the curtain call, the audience jumped to its feet for the chorus and provided thunderous applause for the entire company.

Catfish Row

Porgy's Alley

Adding to the appreciation of Porgy and Bess was a two-hour walking tour to view the city and particularly to see (1) the actual Catfish Row,
(2) the alley where the real Porgy lived, and
(3) the house where DuBose Heyward wrote his novel.

Colbert Home

Of course, being Charleston, a number of other attractions were included in the tour, such as the home where Stephen Colbert grew up; a house formerly owned by Thomas Ravenel, featured on Bravo’s series Southern Charm; the garden of the Calhoun mansion; and a Philip Simmons wrought iron gate.

Philip Simmons' gate

If you ever have the opportunity to visit Charleston, SC, come to experience its rich history and culture. And, if you are there during Spoleto, take time to ignore the heat and indulge in the marvelous variety of incredible performances.

Do you have a special festival that transports you from the everyday to the extraordinary?

[For more about my fitness training to tackle the two-hour Porgy and Bess tour, see yesterday's blog message for The Stiletto Gang!]