by
Paula Gail Benson
My
blog for today is late. I’m circulating it for peer review at the last moment.
Actually beyond the last moment.
Po’ boys and red beans and rice |
Why?
Because I spent the last week celebrating my birthday in New Orleans and
attending Bouchercon 2016. When organizer Heather Graham made the bid to host
the mystery conference after Hurricane Katrina, she said she wanted to help
rebuild the city one party at a time. I’m still trying to count the number of parties
initiated and enjoyed at this year’s B’con. It truly exemplified the phrase
“Laissez les bon temps rouler” (“Let the good times roll”).
Since it was my birthday, I arrived two days early. On the Airport Shuttle, I heard
about the Dixieland Jazz at Preservation Hall. Once I arrived at the hotel, and
enjoyed my view of the Natchez paddleboat, I took stock of the locations of all
the restaurants a friend had recommended. I started out at Felix’s where I had
shrimp and oyster po’ boys, red beans and rice, and bread pudding with whiskey
sauce.
Bread pudding with whiskey sauce |
Then, I walked to Gumbo’s, for an appetizer of Oysters Rockefeller dip
with fried bow tie pasta before waiting in line for tickets. The time spent was
well worth it. I met a delightful couple from Poland who had been at the Hall every
night of their vacation to listen to the music. We sat together on a wooden
bench beneath swirling fans as the band (trumpet, trombone, sax, bass, piano,
and drums) thrilled us with “Sweet Georgia Brown,” “Ain’t Misbehaving,” “Babyface,”
“Summertime,” and “Shake and Bake.” I returned to the hotel, walking up Bourbon
Street, but it felt more like floating on a cloud.
Oysters Rockefeller dip with fried bow tie pasta |
The
next day, I explored Decatur Street, finding Beckham’s, a second hand bookstore
with a resident cat; several praline establishments; and many souvenir and
specialty shops. At Jackson Square, I went into St. Louis Cathedral for mass.
My literary introduction to New Orleans was reading Julie Smith’s Skip Langdon
novels. I remembered so well the scene from New
Orleans Mourning where, after Mardi Gras’ Fat Tuesday, Skip goes to the
cathedral for Ash Wednesday service. The cathedral has extraordinary frescos
and statuary.
On
either side of the cathedral are two museums: the Cabildo features the city’s
history while the Presbytère has one floor dedicated to information about the
hurricanes that have struck New Orleans and another floor that showcases the
costumes, floats, and memorabilia of the Mardi Gras celebrations.
Beignets and Cafe Au Lait |
At
the edge of Jackson Square is Café Du Monde, which serves beignets, coffee, and
hot chocolate twenty-four hours-a-day. I sat there a while, enjoying my treat
and people watching before walking to the river overview and listening to the
calliope on the Natchez.
Once
Bouchercon began, I felt as if I were in a whirlwind, being tossed from one
wonderful experience to the next. Rather than packing the souvenir bags, the
organizers created a book bazaar and gave participants six tickets to select
the reading they wanted to take home with them. Breakfasts and afternoon snacks
were available in the hospitality room. At the opening ceremony, we dined on
New Orleans cuisine (muffulettas, boudin balls, shrimp cocktail, egg roll,
King cake) while the honored guests, dressed in Mardi Gras costumes, rode into
the room on mini-floats. A day later, the crowd walked up Canal Street in a
parade led by a brass band and stilt walkers to see Lee Child’s interview with
David Morrell and hear the announcement of the Anthonys at the Orpheum Theatre.
Opening Reception |
The
programming and interviews were very well done. I learned a great deal about
“Doing Diversity Right” at the Sisters in Crime pre-conference. A shout out to
our own Linda Rodriguez, who along with other experts, gave excellent advice
about how to write with respect for different cultures and persons with disabilities.
The keynote, given by Walter Mosley, was a rousing way to start the event.
I
thoroughly enjoyed Michael Connelly’s interview with Harlan Coben and Ace
Atkins’ interview with Julie Smith. The celebrations for the 30th
anniversary of Sisters in Crime, the 75th anniversary of Ellery
Queen’s Mystery Magazine, and the 6th anniversary of the writing
group of Donna Andrews, Ellen Crosby, John Gilstrip, Alan Orloff, and Art
Taylor all included champagne.
As
always, the best part of any gathering of writers was the opportunity to
reconnect and hear the news. Being in a city that offered history, mystery,
fabulous food, and the possibility for parties on every corner only made it
more wonderful. There are so many people I met (another shout out to our own
Margaret Hamilton and Linda Rodriguez’ husband Ben, among others), greeted, and truly enjoyed seeing. I’m very
grateful for the time we had together.
Almondine |
Thanks
to everyone responsible for the planning and to all who attended and made it
such a grand success.
I
can’t end this message without saying a very special thank you to Dennis and B.K.
Stevens who hosted a wonderful birthday dinner for me at the Meauxbar Bistro. As Art Taylor
pointed out on Facebook, somehow we had seven desserts for six people
(including Debra Goldstein and Riley Miller). We were all initially dubious
about the Jalapeno Melon Mint Cheesecake, but delighted that it tasted very
much like a Mojito (my favorite cocktail and a very literary drink if you
consider Hemingway’s preference). And, how can you go wrong with Almond Joy
Chocolate Cake?
Did you go to
Bouchercon this year? What was your favorite experience? Has this message been
a little too preoccupied with food?
New Orleans: the food, the music, the heat. Can't wait to return for Thanksgiving.
ReplyDeleteI was not at Bouchercon, but with everyone's report I feel as though I might have been there. So glad everyone had a good time.
ReplyDeleteOh my. I just finished breakfast, yet I'm craving crawfish po'boy, beignets, etouffee... I so wish I could have come to B'con this year, but thank you for letting me live it (and taste it) through your report!
ReplyDeleteOh, wow.... Like Julie said, I'm suddenly hungry! Those pictures were great, and I enjoyed your tour here through both New Orleans and Bouchercon itself. So pleased to have been part of these experiences and getting the chance to spend time with you!
ReplyDeletethis post makes me hungry! Glad you had such a great time.
ReplyDeleteYou make me even sorrier I missed Bouchercon this year!
ReplyDeleteI love your pictures.
Paula, I'm sorry I missed Bouchercon, although I feel I wouldn't have been able to fit in an airplane seat after eating all that wonderful food. I would have enjoyed the music, too. Of course, walking the streets sightseeing maybe would have balanced out the calories I took in.
ReplyDeleteThank you, Paula, for a taste of New Orleans and Bouchercon. It all sounded delightful, and now I'm doubly sorry that I missed all the fun.
ReplyDeleteHappy belated birthday! Thanks for sharing all the fun and food.
ReplyDeleteMargaret, it was so good to meet you in person in New Orleans.
ReplyDeleteJim, we missed you. I'm glad you've had a "vicarious" journey.
Julie, I'm still struggling with it and trying to think of places in my neighborhood where I can find similar dishes!
Art, it was great to see you in New Orleans. Thank you for the Sazerac recommendation!
Carla, Kathleen, Gloria, and Grace, you have to plan to go next year to Toronto!
Karen, thank you! Congratulations to you and Art on the Anthony Award for Murder Under the Oaks.
This was my first ever Bouchercon, but it won't be my last. I had a fabulous time. I enjoyed our lunch on Saturday and your stories of Pat Conroy. My favorite things about Bouchercon, 2016 were meeting all the wonderful authors and friends of my sister. Also, being from the Nola area, I was so pleased to see how much everyone enjoyed the sights, sounds and food of the city I love so much.
ReplyDeleteAnnette, it was grand to meet you and to have lunch with you and Ramona. Please convince her to come to Malice. I know you both would enjoy the experience!
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing this, Paula - what a wonderful trip and how fun to celebrate your birthday in such a cool place. Now the ball is in Toronto's court - it will be hard for any place to match New Orleans.
ReplyDelete